Wandering through history 徜徉于历史长河中
Central Beijing was once a warren of courtyard houses and narrow interconnected alleyways, known as hutongs, which have been progressively demolished to make way for wide boulevards and ring roads. But while old gable-ended concave roofs have gradually been displaced by skyscrapers, it is precisely within these dwindling districts that the best atmosphere is retained. 北京市中心曾是拥挤的四合院与纵横交错的胡同世界，如今为了兴建宽阔的大马路与内环路，它们不断地被拆除。虽说四合院老房子逐渐被摩天高楼代替，但正是这些不断缩小的区域仍保留着老北京原汁原味的历史风情。
Gulou, the most central of these hutong neighbourhoods, is named for the tower at its centre.
Drums inside the building were used to announce the time for centuries, a practice only abandoned at the end of the last imperial dynasty of China, the Qing, in 1911/12. 鼓楼位于这些胡同区的最核心地段，其因地处中心的鼓楼而得名。
Read here how one of the Prince of Wales’s charities helped rebuild an old Beijing hutong.
Offbeat shopping 几百年来，鼓楼里的大鼓一直用于报时，直至末代封建王朝满清在1911-12年被推翻后才完全弃用。
Gulou Dongdajie, the main road, ends at the ancient drum tower, which is well worth a visit. But the street itself is a thriving hub of independent shops, full of vintage clothes and trinkets, and unusual bars and cafés.
Houhai skating 非同寻常的购物区
In winter, skating on this scenic lake is a brilliant way to see Gulou from a new vantage point. Houhai lies just north of the Forbidden City, the ancient palace compound that is now a museum. The only thing lacking is a warming house. 主干道鼓楼东大街的尽头就是历史悠久的鼓楼，它是知名景点。但这条街本身就是八方商贾云集之地：到处是出售仿古装与廉价饰品的独立商铺以及独具特色的酒吧和咖啡屋。
Lama temple
Very close to Gulou lies this serene oasis in the heart of frenetic Beijing. Constructed in the 17th century as a residence for court eunuchs, the building was later transformed into a Buddhist monastery, which miraculously survived the tumult of the Communist era and the Cultural Revolution in the 1960s and 1970s. Today, it is a lovely spot to wander, burn incense and contemplate eternity for an afternoon. 后海溜冰
Susu restaurant 每到冬季，在风光旖旎的后海上溜冰，是欣赏鼓楼雄姿的另一绝佳位置。后海就位于故宫之北，故宫曾是昔日皇宫所在地，如今已辟为国家博物馆。游览故宫美中不足的是没有暖气。
Renovated hutongs are the most stylish places to be seen in Beijing. Susu is a stunningly redecorated courtyard house that dates back 140 years. It has been transformed into one of the city’s hottest restaurants and serves Vietnamese cuisine.
Recommendations include make-your-own spring rolls, banh mi sandwiches, the caramelised clay-pot fish and the fried sea crabs. 雍和宫
在喧嚣鼎沸的北京市中心、距鼓楼近在咫尺的是雍和宫这个净土世界。它始建于17世纪，原是太监们的居所，后来则改建成了喇嘛庙；它不可思议地躲过了建国后的多次政治运动以及上世纪60、70年代的文革浩劫。如今，雍和宫是午后漫步、上香以及冥想来世的理想去处。
Susu越南菜馆
修葺一新的胡同是北京城最新潮的地方，Susu越南菜馆就坐落于豪华装修的四合院（其历史可追溯至140年前）里。它如今改造成了全北京城最火爆的餐馆，主打的是越南菜。
SuSu特色菜有自制春卷、越南法棍三明治(banh mi sandwiches)、焦糖巴沙鱼(caramelised clay-pot fish)以及炸海蟹。
译者/常和
